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  1. Yesterday
  2. KobraReX

    Chain clicking,rubbing inside rollcage?

    Specs are SLX M7000 with XT 8000 shadow plus with clutch.Shifting and indexing is perfect,clutch is perfect,pulleys both still in great shape,never hit and no impact on the XT whatsover,cableing all ok. So it started at 1800km,in every gear it started to rub vertically on the metal thing inside RD cage described in your videos where you wash XT mech(you replied to it also). I checked the HG-X with the chain tool and it was at 0.5 so i replaced the old chain with new KMC X11.93,old one was HG-X 501 or 701 i believe.New was shortened to 112 links as the old one was,i replaced also the 3 smallest sprockets 11t 13t 15t cause those is where i usually ride.Cassette is well tightened and it doesnt wobble at all. Here is the video at 5 second mark you can hear clicking(touching the metal thing inside the cage) Basically if i pedal in any gear or if its bumpy,chain bounces on the darn thing and its annoying as hell. 1800km -2000km was fine and now its started again. On the photo i used the 10 inch check chain method,0 starts at the same place(start of the pin) as the 10
  3. SickBiker

    Rear derailleur touching the cassette

    OK, so my buddies from a FB group came up with 2 possible reasons: the derailleur hanger isn't original (not for this frame), the rear mech has been mounted to the hanger on the wrong side. Can you confront these?
  4. SickBiker

    Chain clicking,rubbing inside rollcage?

    Hm, your chain is vibrating for some reason and that's when it rubes the RD cage. The reason for that might be: worn chain and / or the cassette sprockets (check it with the measuring tool), bad chain line, worn pulleys. Did you make a lot of miles on this drivetrain?
  5. SickBiker

    Training Plan For Beginner Cyclists. 3 Options.

    This video might be helpful Just be consistent and you'll see a lot of improvement.
  6. SickBiker

    Need help with understanding racing road bikes

    Cool bike! Very well designed frame! How is the position? OK for your 20-30 km rides. You're gonna be riding more now, you'll see
  7. SickBiker

    Giant AnyRoad 2 (2018) or Cube Nuroad (2018)

    The Giant Anyroad comes with Sora components, but might have higher quality frame. The Cube Nuroad puts you into much less upright position.
  8. Last week
  9. Earlier
  10. You have a bit too many requirements for a 250€ fork You can buy great models for that money, like Manitou Markhor from Amazon or CRC. It won't come with the remote lockout, which you'd have to buy separately here. It is a great, race - ready fork though. The RockShox are quite OK, but Markhor is the lightest.
  11. The only two factors I would think of are: to many layers of tape on the rim? the rim not designed for tubeless.
  12. SickBiker

    RST F1rst Travel adjustment (silver steerer tube)

    Can you post some pictures?
  13. It's a general method. Just start from there and go by your feeling on the bike.
  14. Here's the tutorial on how to disassemble, clean, grease and assemble the vintage Shimano Sora ST-R3300 shifters. If your shifters don't work, try to start simply by spraying some WD-40 into it. The old grease might stop the pawls from moving. If it doesn't help, the full maintenance can be necessary. I use a Shimano grease, like this one. Here are some pictures of the Shimano Sora ST-R3300 overhaul (the two last pictures show the important moment of putting the tension on the spring, during assembly):
  15. Good news - the shadow RD is now available for 105:
  16. If your rear derailleur is squeaking, and it's not about the dry chain, make sure you follow the steps from my video tutorial. I am servicing here the Shimano Sora RD-R3000 rear mech and this will work at least for the Claris and Tiagra, which don't have any bearings in the pulleys, but just bushings. Here are some pictures from the tutorial. The reason of the squeaking was the upper, guide pulley and I needed to put A LOT of grease on its bushing, so that it would finally stop.
  17. How to overhaul the Shimano XT M8000 rear derailleur? It's a fairly easy job, which you can do, simply by following the steps from my video tutorial: Here are the pictures, that show some important steps of the Shimano XT M8000 rear derailleur service: You can disassemble the rear derailleur, without braking the chain. If the rear mech is very dirty, use some soapy water and a brush. The pulleys are NOT interchangeable and NOT symmetrical: the guide pulley is the upper one and the tension pulley is the lower one, pay attention to the arrows on the pulleys, indicating the direction of chain movement, while pedalling FORWARD. You can open the bearings, if the pulleys (jockey wheels) don't spin nicely. Removing the clutch is easy, but PAY ATTENTION to what parts you will grease - some have to stay clean, without the grease.
  18. So, I'm a new cyclist (one month old) and I've been trying to get the correct saddle height. I've watched so many videos including yours but using the prescribed method of measuring from the top of the saddle to the middle of the crank makes the saddle too high so much that I can't mount or dismount safely. Please help cause my right knee is hurting already. Thanks.
  19. HI! My F1rst is different from SickBikers F1rst, the rebound adjustment is different and the steerer tube color is different. Can someone teach me how to remove the lower leg and adjust the travel?
  20. Hi there. I have also gone electric with a Pine Mountain and Bafang motor. It's a great little adventure bike so thanks for the inspiration. My only problem is the rear tyre rolling off the rim on fast cornering. I went tubeless with both the standard nobby nics and vittoria bombolino with the same result. Any suggestions? The tyre pressure is not super low by the way at 25+psi...
  21. Deput post - Hello!! Thanks for the video - I watched with interest but length is a factor nobody seems to commit to - perhaps a good video topic I am sure several struggle with this! I am building an XC bike for my 11yo girl from new and as-new re-purposed parts, and my plans are for TWITTER frame (26 or 27.5 compatible), bottom bracket width is 68mm, threaded MANITOU R7 fork SLX 1x11 (11-42) / SLX shifter and mech 26" Shimano M15 wheels (for now) Ardent/Ikon Toseek bars/stem/post Shimano M395 brakes Basic velo saddle all above fixed Variables are the crank (choice here) and bottom bracket (yet to buy); Shimano Octolink (3x stripped and given a 34t or 36t ali single ring) - this needs an octolink BB or Truvative 1x (steel 38t removed, 34tor 36t ali single ring) - this needs a square taper BB Finding the balance in theory for the correct BB lengths has me concerned - as real low gears are likely to be rarely used but irritating if slipping off back-pedaling, high gears more likely to be used (9/10/11) on trips. Use for the bike would be cycle paths, gentle trails, some climbs, much flat as I am trying to build my youngest daughter's interest in cycling! Personally tending towards octo/113mm, but inexperienced with 1x. Any experienced tips welcome! Hopeful - Graz btw - this will replace a small frame GT Avalanche 2 (14kg), sweet child bike but heavy...
  22. Hello everyone, I would like to ask for your recommendations about what fork should I buy. This guide and video are really helpful, but I still have some questions. I would like to buy something in 200-250€ range (or maybe bit more if it's really necessary) for some easy terrain. RockShox Recon RL seems like best choice for me. It should have "rebound-to-lock damper" and "OneLoc compatibility". However, most Recon RL forks I see in shops come with remote or are advertised as compatible with remote, but sellers say they can't be adjusted from unlocked to locked in steps. Some versions seem to have knob on crown which supposedly allows adjusting compression dampening in steps. Does anyone have experience with this? Which version do you prefer? What happens if I hit bump with locked "remote version" fork? Sadly I could find only version with spool for remote, are there any shops in EU that sell the other one? If you have any other advice (other brands, shops which send packages to Slovakia...) please share.
  23. After long hours of reading, thinking and researching I finally made my decision. Here is my caad12 105 (I like this color scheme)
  24. I recently broke my 105 5800 rear derailleur on my road bike and looking for new one. Which one do you recommend? Is the r8000 worth upgrading from 5800?
  25. Hi guys! I'm thinking of buying a new bike, I do not want to say what my choices are so as not to influence the answer to this comparison. In summary, the only doubt I have is to know which of these suspensions is the best ... Manitou Markhor Comp vs RockShox Judy Silver TK?
  26. Let's see some pictures and video first... Merida eOne-Twenty 800. A thousand ways to use it! That's the testing I love! Cool bike, tons of fun and zero problems with anything. If you don't know me from my YouTube channel, I am an XC rider, doing some 10.000 - 12.000 kilometers annually. Here's how an e-bike fits my lifestyle. I do the course preview on it. I can come early morning to the race and make 4-7 laps on the track. It helps me to prepare for the technical sections and come up with some tactics. My legs stay fresh though. MTB technique drills. I simply go out and find some super technical descend. Then I can smash it 10 times, if I want, without destroing my legs before the next day workout. Exploration. I have discovered so many new routes and places this year. Recovery ride. This is the type of ride, which I've been usually making on a road bike. Now my e-bike helps me find new ways to recover, without getting bored with the same roads over and over again. Filming. My eOne-Twenty is the main bike for my camera man, when we go out for shooting some videos. How does the Shimano Steps E800 work after 1335 km? The whole Shimano Steps system is well designed. Here's the conclusion of our long distance test: The electric motor kicks in very smoothly . 250 Watts doesn't seem much, but it feels powerfull on a steep climbs in the Boost mode. The range displayed on the unit is real. After 12 months of testing I can easily make 100 km on a flat terrain. The power sensor is kind of smart - the less you push - the less you get out of the motor. So you need to work as well. Very capable trail bike! eOne-Twenty stands for an e-bike with 120 mm of a rear travel (RockShox Revelation 130 mm at the front). It's got also the 27,5+ wheels, which means heavy duty 2.8 tires. In this model these are: Maxxis DHR at the front and Maxxis Rekon in the rear. It is a perfect match of all above mentioned features! Simply find something "impossible to ride through" and go! This machine always wants more and will push it to challenge yourself. It is NOT a bike for lazy people! I personally wouldn't use tires bigger than 2.6 on a classic bike, but on an e-bike it makes a lot of sense. The tires are bulletproof - just look at the knobs after all these miles! This bike really gives you the feeling of owning a high quality stuff. Oh, and the dropper post is a must on such a trail full suspension bike. In addition to all that, I didn't service the fork and the rear suspension yet - no need for that. The cable routing is great - no noise at all. And the motor worked flawlessly even in a pouring rain I decided to go out The crankarms though start to squeek, when pushing off the saddle. It's time for some ovehaul. Merida - great job!
  27. mazzi

    Rear derailleur touching the cassette

    This is with the old cassette.
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