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If you want to make a positive, lasting change in your life, this challenge is for you Take EACH day with its tasks seriously and you can be surprised with the outcome! DAY 1. Think over, analyse and write down your goal for these 30 days. It has to be SPECIFIC, REALISTIC, yet CHALLENGING. Don't write then: "I wanna lose weight", "I want to look better", "I want to race better". You won't be able to work towards such an idea. Instead, write something like: "I'll lose 15 pounds", "I'm going to quit smoking", "I'll fix my LDL level" etc. You may write, what you want and you can add some pictures to you post. This will be the place for a discussion for all of us. Here is my goal: I'm going to finish in TOP 10 on Polish XCO Nationals 22nd of July. PERIOD!
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Bon joined the community
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What do you think about the 2018 96 600? Good or bad
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By trimming, they usually mean, that when you shift on front, then there's 3 clicks, even though there's only 2 chain rings at front.. So when you have it on big at front and smallest at rear, then you shift the shifter on the last click, but when have it at big on front and also at rear on something bigger and it starts to rub, you can do one click at front. It won't change the gear, but it just trim it a little bit that it would not rub. If it's on big at front and small at rear and you have clicked all the clicks the front shifter has to get it to big ring and it's still rubbing. Then you can look if there's barrel adjuster somewhere on the front shifters cable housing... somewhere on the section between handlebar and frame. By turning that you can increase decrease cable tension. You need to increase it to solve your problem.. Just try to turn it either direction and see what happens.
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Hello bikers! I'm looking for some bike luggage for small trips of 3 to 7 days max. I have been looking Topeak and Blackburn equipment. My idea is to get some bags and avoiding racks (front and rear) - front bag - attached to the handle bar 5 to 10L capacity - seat post bag - 10L capacity I have seen some bags attached to the front suspension but dont know if that is just some regular dry bags hold with straps... If you have any experience or thoughts on this would appreciate it. Cheers!
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Hello! 20 years ago I bought a brand new Trek 8000 obviously 26''. I just loved it and rode quite a lot. No competition. Some weekend rides of 80km or small trips of 250kms of 3 days. I'm from Portugal and live in Sintra where there always have been a lot of MTB including some mild DH. I don't do crazy stuff like huge jumps but I like descending with some adrenaline. I'm returning to MTB after almost 10 years stopped. Now I realize how the industry has changed! I feel like an old man looking to a totally different reality... because it is in fact! I tested 29'' and I loved it! I like the way it goes on tarmac and dirt. But I don't want that aggressive position that we had back in the days :-) Not only for some more grip and security descending but for comfort in general. I still want to do some small trips of 3 to 5 days. I'm looking for a FS allround. My budget is not closed and it will be around 2000€. Ascetically my preference is for Canyon Neuron and Cube 120 / Radon but I'm open to other brands. If you may have some suggestions or comments in general I will be appreciated. Thanks! Cheers
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Hi Danny First of all thanks for all cycling tips enjoy them a lot. Looking to buy my first road bike and have narrowed it down to this two http://www.raddiscount.de/P09721.html http://www.raddiscount.de/P10044.html Both are 2017 models and just looking to find if they represent good value for money. Or should I look into maybe at canyon or rose? Can you recommend any good deals. The bikes will be purely for long sportive don’t have any racing ambitions. Thanks M
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What do I really think about the new XTR M9100 Groupset? The new Shimano XTR M9100 has been made with 3 types of riders in mind: Cross Country, Marathon and Enduro racers. I like the idea, so let's look into some of the new features: 12-speed cassette with either a 10-45T or 10-51T option (as expected, the Sram Eagle will no longer be the only 12 speed drivetrain for MTB). 2- or 4-piston brakes (lightweight for XC, powerfull for Enduro). New hub with MICRO SPLINE technology. No compatibility with any other groupset so far, maybe the XT will get one soon... More options for positioning the levers on the handlebars (brakes, shifters, dropper post!). That's great! 150 g less on the XC version and 90 g less on Enduro version. We were all 100% sure, that Shimano will go for a 12 speed drivetrain, which turned out to be quite good at least in XC and Marathon racing. I like it. Why did Shimano go for 51 teeth on the lowest gear, since 50T (10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51T) was more than enough on Sram Eagle? I hope it was not just to get one more, than the competition... 10-45T (10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32-36-40-45T) cassette is a GREAT news. It was something really lacking on Eagle. Less weight overall is good to, but I'm more happy to hear, that we get more options for positioning different levers on the bars - the current I-spec and Sram systems were still not enough for many of us (I-SPEC-EV designs give 14 mm of lateral sliding range and 60 degrees of rotational positioning). Both cassettes use strikingly different metals for different sprockets to allow the best balance of weight and durability. The largest sprockets use aluminium, the middle use titanium and the smallest use steel. There is also the 11 speed cassette (CS-M9110-11), which basically takes of the 51T cog from 12s version. A Silent Hub! To fit the 12-speed set up SHIMANO restructured the FREEHUB design with what’s known as MICRO SPLINE technology to fit the cassette. As well as that comes the introduction of SCYLENCE technology in Shimano’s rear hub. This new technology replaces the pawls with a ratchet system to reduce drag whilst coasting and create a virtually silent hub so you can focus more on the trail ahead. Front hubs are available in 100 or 110 mm spacing with a 15 mm thru-axle and rear hubs come in 142 or 148mm (Boost specification) with a 12 mm thru-axle (HB-M9110/-B / FH-M9110/-B). Ratchet system? Sounds familiar... What I'm even most excited about is the silent hub - will try it in July! One Crankset For 1x and 2x drivetrain Direct mount chainrings just do the job! Now you can mount quickly one of the 30T through 38T chainring. You can add the chain device, if you want (SM-CD800 E mount, D mount or ISCG05 type). Going to Cape Epic race? Simply swap your chainring with the double one on the same crankset. The chain comes with the QUICK LINK and the derailleurs come in three option 1x short or long cage and 2x long cage. Smart Features I like, when new components aren't simply introduced to the customers as "the lightest, the stiffest" and so on... Here are some "small" changes to the new XTR groupset, that I love: MONO LEVER - since the front mech operates on 2 chainrings only, why not make only ONE lever for it. Clever! 11-to-12-speed converter (SL-M9100-R/-IR) on the rear shifter for riders choosing the ‘11-speed’ wider flange hub set-up. Cockpit integrstion: I-SPEC EV design + dedicated dropper seat post lever. The clamp of a brake lever moved towards the middle of the lever body and the edge of the lever body being cleverly braced against the handlebar to create a stiffer brake with more direct contact feeling and improvement in control. Small things can make a difference. We will see, how the new XTR performs, but so far I like the direction Shimano have taken with it
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I have Shimano 105 group set and the gears have been indexed by a qualified bike mechanic. Shifting gears is fine and operates as it should but when the chain is on the big ring at the front and the smaller cogs at the cassette I then hear chain rub. You can see and hear it rubbing on the front derailluer cage. I have been told that you can trim the Shimano front derailluer to stop the chain rubbing but I have not been shown this and I would like somebody to explain how to perform this please? If gears are set correctly should it operate without any noises from the chain rubbing? I very much enjoy my bike but this problem is spoiling my enjoyment and I would appreciate any advice.
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Hi guys, I want to start this topic to get some advice on how to fast on a work/training schedule. My daily routine during the week looks like this. Work: 7:00 to 17:00. Training/Biking: 18:30 to 21:00 My eating window is between 7:00 and 15:30. I try not to eat at least 3 hours before training. By the time I am done training I am depleted and already fasting. I feel like fasting after training affects my recovery time. What do you guys think? Any feedback is appreciated.
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Aero for an average Joe? Yes, the aero road bikes have always been sexy looking, but difficult to ride. Why? The point was to make the fastest bike possible (on paper). An aero framesets with aero geometry were giving great results in the wind tunnel, but show me people, who would ride these bikes on the drops for hours... Merida Reacto is the bike, that will give better results in the real world, than in the lab and that's what I've been looking for. Sweet spot between comfort and aerodynamics. Geometry is the key Same stack and reach as on the climbing bike - Merida Scultura. I even compared the geo to Cannondale SuperSix EVO I had been testing for a whole season and the SuperSix is about 30 mm lower, than the Reacto. Just look at the head tube and you'll see right away, that Reacto will feel fine on the drops. Is it still an aero bike with such geometry? Hell yeah! The bike is packed with aerodynamic features: NACA FASTBACK (National Advisory Committee for Aeronautics), truncated tubes, aero fork, integrated with the down tube, rear brake hidden behind the bottom bracket, all internal cables with new routing, aero seatpost, integrated seat clamp, 35 mm deep rims, smaller rear triangle with shaped seatstays. How does it ride Merida Reacto is indeed comfortable, it's got the aero sound, it's very stiff and... don't think you're going to be faster on it, if you strugle riding solo with the speed over 30 km/h (19 mph). The higher the speed, the bigger the aero advantage, but it is rather for stronger guys to actually notice the difference. The with its huge BB area is very stiff and the sprinters will love it, but don't expect to much compliance from it, even though it's all carbon. The engineers gave the seatpost a special elastomer insert, which does flex nicely, but even newbies will notice the difference on a bumpy tarmac between the Reacto and Scultura (climbing bike). Whom do I recommend this one? EASY - all sprinters, all faster guys and all those, who want a bad ass looking machine. If you're a typical climber, with little power on flats, get yourself a climbing bike, but if you love the pain when pushing it over 35 km/h, then the Merida Reacto will slice the wind beautifully. Of course, the Shimano Ultegra components worj great and the wheels are good quality (Fulcrum Racing Aero), but some carbon ones would make the bike even faster. One thing I DIN NOT LIKE is the rear brake clamp and a barrel adjuster, that hit the bars on the bumpy road. Here's the video test:
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Thinking of pulling the trigger on the Diamondback Overdrive 2 27.5. Getting back into riding. Nothing sirius at all. Just cruising around our local ski hill with the wife. Have you any opinion on the Diamondback Over drive 2 27.5? Would defiantly like a lock out. Want to be in the $500ish or less range. Ive always liked Diamond Back bikes. So I tend to lean towards them. Thanks for your input. https://www.rei.com/product/124895/diamondback-overdrive-2-275-bike-2018
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Good day, I followed the Youtube channel for some time now, and felt like I can say something here regarding heart rate. As you mentioned, it is very individual. I am 35 years old, my resting heart rate is 43, blood pressure 108/64, just did a race yesterday, avg heart rate 193 max 201 over 1hour and 20min. This has always been the case with me, I have a very high active heart rate from when I can remember using my first heart rate monitor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I set my max heart rate on my Garmin as 215, thus having a reading of heart rate zone 5 for very long times. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hybrid Hardtail to Cyclocross/Gravel Drop Bars Convertion
Hardi replied to Maichson's topic in Bikes - general discussion
For extraordinary bike, extraordinary shifters.. Maybe gevenalle shifters? There should be opinion that is compatible with mountain bike derailleurs and brake calipers. About handlebar, I don't know at all. It's all personal preference I think.. I did not like the drop handlebar on my merida cyclocross, because it was difficult to reach to brake levers from drops. So I replaced it with a more classic curve handlebar.. ritchey evo max comp. Now I can brake when on drops. But I get little bit tingling on hands on longer rides.. 3 hours and above.. when mostly on drops. That's all I know.. Sorry that I'm not much help.. While it seems very fun project to do. :) -
Hi there, mine is about 43 bpm. My blood pressure usually somewhere about 118/82, so higher than yours, but still low. It is very individual, but I would check the Echocardiography, if I was you. In my case, the only disadvantage of having low pressure is dizziness whan I switch from low positions in yoga, to standing positions.
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Hi Danny! What's about low HR? Is it ok if I am having 40 bpm at rest? As well as 85 60 blood pressure? Does it mean I am super fit?
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Scalpel 3 carbon 2015 - how to change the lefty which does not work
Daniel posted a topic in Cannondale (Lefty, HeadShok)
Hello, I have a carbon Scalpel 3 2015 (I bought it in January, 2015) Since this date, I do not stop having problems with the Lefty. I had a problem on the button of blocking in December, 2015 I had a problem of fork blocked in high position twice I had a problem of fork blocked in low position (like no more pressure)twice Each time the fork leaves for revision and I can't ride my bike for approximately three-four weeks. I begin to have it enough, that is why I shall like knowing if you could tell me if I can change my lefty for another fork (FOX 32 for example) I shall like knowing if it is possible to remove the lefty without modifying the behavior of the bike? Thank you in advance Daniel -
Hybrid Hardtail to Cyclocross/Gravel Drop Bars Convertion
Maichson posted a topic in Bikes - general discussion
Hi All, I recently bought a pre-loved (used) Merida Crossway 900 2014 Model (see link below). I have enjoyed a couple of rides on it, and want to turn it into a Cyclocross/Gravel Hardtail bike. It is very ideal in my opinion and will save me some cash instead of buying an actual Cyclocross/Gravel if the project goes well as I hope. To Note: Bike is a 46 cm I am 5'4" 17 cm hand length (bottom of palm to longest finger) 9 cm palms width (across middle of my palm) Goals To have drop bars so I can several options when riding on different terrains (aerodynamic, upright on the bars, and on the hoods) an retain control on climbs and descents. Retain my 3 x 10 Retain the Hydraulic disc braking system without replacing the brake callipers. Challenges Which drop bars would best achieve the aims of this project? Which dual shifters would best suit this project? (Note, they have to be Hydraulic without replacing existing callipers) Maybe Danny can even do a show on this type of conversion. Thanks guys, look forward to great ideas. https://www.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bikes/cross/cross/2014/crossway-900-363.html -
Hello, my plan is to upgrade Synapse components to Shimano Ultegra r8000 and also use power meter. I’m interested in r8000 crank set 52/36 172,5mm. I found left arm power meter for ultegra r6800 (much cheaper then r8000 left crank arm) but my question is can i put r6800 arm power meter on r8000 crank set and is it compatibile?
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4 Features To Peek At Your Rivals Garmin Edge Cycling Computer...
Glenn replied to SickBiker's topic in SickBiker Blog
Good info thanks. Glenn -
Just signed up. Great job with all the info...
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Hello! I live in Finland and currently I'm looking for a new (roadbike) framset. I prefer a BMC or Cannondale. Currently I been trying to find a bike shop(s) in Poland that is selling those brands. No success. Can you advice me on couple of descent shops that would deliver to Finland (and have web sites as well and I can do business with in english). Billing can be done by proforma-invoicing as well. Thx in advance. Lasse
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got this bike about a month ago, i really do like it regardless of the cheap parts, everything is standard and the frame is built to hold the controller and battery internally, and it has lots of space inside that will fit a pretty big upgrade in the future (i'm gonna go for 500w and rebuild the battery that it came with using 3 more cells, but if you ditch the battery case you could fit a HUGE battery in the uptube, and the controller section could easilly fit a 1000w 48v controller) as far as the electronics go, but my biggest issue is the gearing. i would love to just go to a 1x10 on this bike but i find it really unlikely that i would manage to fit a freehub on it and the rear triangle is aluminum, so i want to go with a bigger chainring. but i have also been toying with the idea of going 2x7 or 3x7 if i could only figure out a decent way to put a front derailleur on. anyone have any ideas for fitting a front derailleur on this frame? oh, and i've thought about putting it on the rear triangle, but i don't know if it would work so well because the triangle moves separate from the chainring. wouldn't that be an issue?
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Bike sizing - Trek Superfly - what frame size AND GEOMETRY to choose?
Lenshtina replied to SickBiker's topic in Bike Fitting / Sizing
I'm 180cm tall, because of the very low price I consider to buy 29" Trek superfly 9.8 sl from 2015 but frame is L one year of use or 26" Scott spark rc 10 size M from 2012 mint condition I'm ex mountain bike champion in my country 13-12-11 years ago... But almost 7 years I'm off the race scene, ride my bike for comuting and some maratons... My goal is to back in to the races BTW I have similar riding style, body constitution and age like you... what do you recomand... Q: is there a huge (big) diference in the wheel size 26" vs 29" (I have never race on 29") or it's just markenting -
Straight from the box to the XC race - that's how I started my long distance test of a new 2018 Rose Count Solo 2 hardtail. The race was extremely hard, very muddy and I did quite well, finishing 5th. I'll describe here my first impressions, as the bike has to go through another 1800 km in my test. 999€ or 1230$ for an XC machine? Yes, you can race on the bike of that price range and you can do it well. I got 5th in the Masters category (I'm 38 years old), but my average speed would also give me a 9th position in the Elite category - pretty cool! For 999€ plus shipping you get an alloy hardtail with some Shimano SLX components. The real weight of my bike in Large is 12,9 kg out of the box, so without the pedals. Besides that you get the RockShox Recon RL fork and Mavic Crossride wheelset on Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires. Not bad! New for 2018 - Count Solo frame. Comparing to the previous generation, the Count Solo frame got more classic design. It has a tapered head tube with a new Rose logo, well made, but not smoothened welds and no through axle. The frame weighs some 1800 grams, according to Rose, so it's not a high-end product, but you can definitely expect some durability here. I do... The rear brake and rear derailleur housing is routed externally and the front mech got an internal one. The frame is also equipped with the eyelets for the racks and fenders, as the bike at this price point is not only designed for racing. Small issues? Yes - the cable routed inside the down tube is loose and it rattles on the cobblestones. How it rides? The Rose Count Solo rides beautifully through the easy trails, but it won't slow you down on an aggressive Cross Country track. The race I made on the bike was a 4 km long loop with a rock garden, a small jump, some logs and plenty of steep descends and climbs. The melting snow made it also super muddy. The geometry is balanced, though my "Frog" (Merida Big Nine Lite) has much shorter wheelbase. The Count Solo feels pretty stable, but rides well through the corners as well (just look at the pictures below). The 2x11 drivetrain is versatile and I had no problems with it in the mud, changing the gears constantly. The RockShox Recon RL has the 32 mm stanchions and can be used as a 100% XC fork. It is stiff enough and simply does the job on the course. Some of you were telling me about the OneLoc remote, that opens by itself on the bumps - mine works fine so far. All the components come from a known manufacturers - you know what you're buying. The RockShox Recon RL with an OneLoc remote isn't super light, but it works fine and it's stiff! Good value for the money. Who should consider buying the Count Solo 2. There are two groups of riders, who should check out this bike. It is the overall MTB amateurs, from easy trail riding to commuting and the XC / marathons racers on a budget. If you plan to train and race in mountain biking, this will be a very well spent 1000€. Choose your line and don't make any unnecessary moves and your Count Solo will let you pass many riders in the corners. The Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires are versatile and I pushed them to the limits on the mud with some good results. The Rose Count Solo on the steep climbs... When there was to much mud, I chose to push the bike, rather than carry 13 kg on my shoulder. Jumps, logs, rock gardens - no problem for Count Solo. Remember - it is your technique, that makes you fast, but the bike has to let you do your thing... The questions you'll probably ask... 1. No through axles?! Nope, quick release front and rear. I would appreciate the through axles on an XC bike, but to be honest - didn't feel any lack of stiffness. 2. Would the 1x11 drivetrain be better? No. The 2x11 drivetrain did great in the extreme conditions and it will suit defferent needs of the "budget MTB" riders. 3. This bike is definitely trail-ready and race-ready, but a carbon seat post can give you a bit more comfort. If you're serious about XC - get the dropper post.
