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Hi Danny, I was watching your old videos about CAAD10 and shifting issues/performance. Is it still valid for 105 or was it chain which was installed incorrectly (or some other misconfigurations)? Thanks a lot :).
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donkeydonkey joined the community
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See http://goodway.cz/en/titul-page-aj/ For more events in CZ check out https://mtbs.cz/sekce/kalendar or http://www.cykloserver.cz/kalendar-akci/ (you can switch to English there).
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Mind Bro joined the community
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Ok, I definitely will
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If you buy it, show us some photos!
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Thanks a lot Danny :).
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Yo Max, the Cannondale CAAD12 is VERY comfy in terms of compliance, but yes, it's got a racing geometry. If you don't have any problems with flexibility, it can still be good for you. Just don't cut hte steerer of the fork and perhaps use shorter, or higher stem. 20-30 km rides can feel great on this bike.
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Dayro joined the community
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cDale Harz joined the community
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Hi Danny, Thanks for your cool videos, I always enjoy them very much. In some of your videos you are saying that race bikes are only for races and if you don't race then this is not the bike for you. Now I'm in doubt since I'm dreaming about road bike and in local store we have cannondale bikes with good prices. They sell CAAD12 105 for 1350usd and this is the price I can afford, but this is the race bike. They also have SYNAPSE Carbon 105 for 1850usd which is a bit pricey. Considering that I'm not planning to race nor ride 100km+ rides what do you think I should select? I'm currently riding mtb only, swift in off season. My rides are not long - 20-30km few times a week. I'm worried that race bike will be uncomfortable to ride and caad12 will be just a waste of money. Please help with your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
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Max joined the community
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Hi all...wonder if anyone has had this problem. I have a set of Shimano PD-M520 pedals on my mtb and on my road bike. I have two pairs of the same shoe, FLR F-55. One pair has SM-SH51 cleats and the others have SM-SH56(M) cleats. My issue is both style cleat is difficult to clip in ( I have the pedals at the least tension setting). It appears that the hard tread part that you would walk on is almost too thick and is preventing the cleat from engaging fully. My feet actually flew off the pedals on rough ground the other day when wearing the multi release cleat. Not what you expect when clipped in is it?
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Craig joined the community
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Training Plan For Beginner Cyclists. 3 Options.
usecourser replied to SickBiker's topic in SickBiker Blog
I don't seek out confrontation but this guy stopped and looked like he wanted to have a conversation so I was happy to oblige. I wish i hadn't raised my voice but something to different next time. UPDATE: The first Vehicle Code quote should read, “a means of conveyance propelled by human power OTHER THAN A BICYCLE.” There was apparently a glitch during the upload which randomly cut that text out. It’s there in the edit but not on YouTube. So weird. more............... Visit This Link -
Rotor 1x13 newest drivetrain. The first 13 speed drivetrain in the world! That is NOT the main feature of the new 1x13 groupset, made by Rotor Bike Components. After looking at its features I can tell right away, that this wasn't just the "we've got more gears" war. There is much more into it... Here are some of the features, that make the 1x13 Rotor drivetrain unique: The first 13 speed cassette in the world, but with the SAME sprockets spacing, as the 12 speed Eagle from Sram. This means compatibility with 12 speed chains, but also the need of using Rotor hub with the right flange moved inward a bit. (less wheel stiffness?). The same groupset in three versions: road, gravel and MTB. The same rear derailleur for the road and mountain bike shifters. The MTB shifters also give you the choice of using just one lever, or two (one lever operates kind of like the Sram road shifters). The same rear mech for 12 speed and 13 speed cassettes (it has a switch). The ineksing mechanism built into the rear mech, and not the shifters. FOUR 12 speed cassettes (11-36, 11-39, 11-46, 11-52) and FOUR 13 speed cassettes (10-36, 10-39, 10-46, 10-52). Lovely Hydraulic system - smoother and lighter than the mechanical one. Rotor claim, that it is very user friendly and reliable. Option to buy smaller cogs separately (5 steel cogs + one alloy unit for lower gears). I am truly impressed and can't wait to check this stuff out. Maybe I'll be able to do so
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Old Man joined the community
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exxellent joined the community
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olee22 joined the community
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https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=gcn+bikepacking
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Charles Chia joined the community
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Merida 96 600 is just a good bikie
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Hi I have Merida Team 96 27.5 and would like to know if I can fit a set of 29er wheels on it. I understand they don’t want to rub etc but will it still ride ok or change angles to much? It’s cheaper than selling whole bike and buying a 29er if it works. Thanks for any help.
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In 30km radius its FLAT around here. After that its hills and even 15% gradient. However I already switched to 11-28 becouse I was so inpatient I feel a huge difference between 12-32 and 11-28. Didnt expect that...
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Hi, you can buy sora online at a good price
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It all depends on terrain around you. If you have flat roads in your neighborhood with max gradient around 10% you can use 12-25 cassette and it will be all you you need. Then it will be also easier to choose the optimal cadence on flat road.
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I bought Jagwire DIY elite sealed cable kit. But that was just my choice.. For me it was important, that, it has to be sealed. I was ridding at winter and it's bad when water get in cable housing and freeze. PS. Replacing cables might not be solution for your problem.. Just that it was my experience, that the shifting got a lot better, sharper and I haven't had a need to re-index it after that.. or maybe I needed to do it once at beginning. How I can tell it's a lot faster and sharper - I now get chain dropped when shifting to smaller ring carelessly.. too fast clicking, or more like doing double click accidentally.. First I thought I have done something wrong, but latter I understood that. It's just that the old cable had so much friction, that when I switch to smaller ring it was moving so much slow that it could not drop the chain.
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Thanks for the info. What make of cables did you replace them with and have you had to re-index the front mechanism since?
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When I bought my bike. I also needed to reindex front derailleur several times.. (shimano 105 5800).. I haven't had the need to reindex it, after I replaced the shifting cables with better ones.. that I also cut into correct length(after I had got the handlebar position where I really like it to be). shimano Teflon coated cables used on this groupset get also bad quite easily.. When I replaced them on my bike, the front derailleur cable was in especially bad shape.. After.. about 2 years of usage.
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All I know is that that it is Shimano 105 5800.
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I don't know, but what is the exact model of your derailleur. Newer shimano 105 models. FD-5801 and FD-R7000 seems more complicated, and thus maybe also more delicate?.. I ask because I was thinking about to upgrade my FD-5800 to FD-R7000 to get more clearance for mudguard...
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Henry changed their profile photo
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I taken my bike to my local bike shop several times. They correctly set the front deraillure up for me and it is perfect. I can change up and down, especially on the largest chainring and smallest rear cog (harder gears) with no chain rub. The problem is that when I use the bike for a few days I will hit some really rough road surfaces which can knock the bike a bit as you ride over the surface. Inevitably the chain rub starts on the front deraillure cage. Is the front deraillure cage that delicate that you have to constantly have to keep adjusting it?
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Please help !!! Dear forum users! I am newbie! I have a bike ghost ASX 4900. The back of the frame cracked ((( Question: where can I buy a frame (or at least the back part) ??? ps: sorry for my bad English!
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Hi there, I'm from Italy, could you please give me an indication as to where I can find the best deals on Shimano Sora groupsets close to where I live. Thanks in advance.Regards
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I recently seen a video and tried to find it again with no luck. SB recommended a new company making some new brake shoes he highly recommended...anyone know which company or the name of these brake shoes? I like shimanos, but not shimanos price.
