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mariogarcia joined the community
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SR Suntour XCR Air LOR fork - full service & lockout fix.
SickBiker posted a topic in SickBiker Blog
SR Suntour XCR Air LOR Below a video tutorial on how to overhaul a budget air fork from Suntour + some pictures from the servicing process. -
Hi Xavier, I don't know if you bought you bike already but since you are Portuguese like me and we live almost on the same area maybe I can help. Do you know the brand Coluer? In my area (south of the Tejo river) I know a shop that sell it, maybe you heard of it (Byke Mania), normally they have fair prices and work with several brands Here you have the Coluer Wizard 5.0 with a very nice carbon frame, good RockShox Judy Gold RL suspension and SRAM NX transmision for a litle bit more than 2000€ (you can get a discount from the price on the official site). I'm happy to see that we have here more Portuguese people Cheers
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nepo joined the community
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I totally agree with @Hardi. It is the sole of your shoe, that creates the tension and not the cleats, which are compatible with the pedals. The M520 pedals are one of the easiest for mounting and dismounting.
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Bike bottom brackets: square tapered, Octalink, BSA / MegaExo, Pressfit, BB30 / PF30. Shimano
SickBiker replied to SickBiker's topic in cranksets, bottom brackets
I would start with the chainrings, Graz. I've been riding the 32T chainrings with 10-50T cassette so far. Are you sure 1x drivetrain with 34 or 36T will be OK for you daughter? Otherwise, the Octalink should be a bit lighter and just more up-to-date BB. -
Inseam x 0.883 makes saddle too high!
SickBiker replied to Blackprinceinc's topic in Bike Fitting / Sizing
The "inseam x 0.8" method is just the starting point. If you FEEL the saddle is to high, you should definitely lower it, by 1-3 mm each time, until it feels right. -
Ricardo Orbea joined the community
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acmcgaha joined the community
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Easy Adjustment, Good Braking Performance - TRP Spyre-C Disc Brakes Review.
SickBiker replied to SickBiker's topic in disc brakes
Weird. Do you have these brakes? https://www.trpcycling.com/product/spyre/ -
Swop 27.5 wheelset for29ers?
SickBiker replied to HTFCTerrier's topic in Wheels, tires, inner tubes, hubs
If you swap both wheels with 29", no angles will change, yet the bike will sit higher and you'd have to lower the travel of the suspension. -
Save the search on eBay and watch for new auctions: https://www.ebay.de/sch/i.html?_odkw=ghost+asx&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=gost+asx&_sacat=0
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It's a shame, we can't find the solution. Cheers!
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Rose Backroad - Any Review? Thoughts on Gravel Bikes in Winter
SickBiker replied to Ullrich Koenig's topic in gravel / adventure bikes
Hallo Ulrich The Rose Backroad has been with me for couple of hundreds kilometers and it turned out to be a very good gravel bike. The frame feels light and stiff. It could be a bit more compliant though. No problems with cables, good shifting and the brakes were the best I had so far on a road / gravel bike. Extremely powerful. -
What should a good $2000 Cross Country hardtail offer? Are you looking for a fast and reliable XC mountain bike, having a sub $2000 budget? Let's compare the features of three well known hardtails: Trek X-Caliber 9, Scott Scale 980, Merida Big Nine NX Edition. So here are the main features, that make the bike worths 2000 USD: solid, lightweight, stiff aluminium frame, with tapered head tube. suspension fork with an air spring - your MTB ride for $2000 will be a hardtail, reliable drivetrain, with wide gearing ratio: 2x11 or 1x12 (1x11 at the very least), strong, hydraulic disc brakes, preferably through axles front and rear + boost system, the whole bike weight without pedals - 12 - 12,5 kg. 1. The frame. If you expect your new sub $2000 machine to be a good Cross Country bike, then it should be build on an advanced, alloy frame. I say "advanced", meaning that it won't be a budget one. It should be made of the butted tubes, hydroformed and / or mechanically formed, so that it will provide a stiff platform for hard pedalling up the hills and cutting through the trails down the hill. A tapered head tube is one of the parts, that will enhance the stiffness. It means, that a lower headset bearing will be larger than the upper one and also the forks steering tube will be shaped accordingly. A common standard here is the diameter of 1 1/8" by 1.5". All three bikes have got a tapered head tube and hydroformed tubes. All three frames are also front derailleur compatible. Merida Big Nine and Scott Scale 980 have the full internal cable routing and Trek X-Caliber has the rear brake housing routed externally. The Merida has an additional smart entry system, that allows you to clamp the housing under tension, which prevents the rattling. 2. The suspension fork. A coil spring on the fork is unacceptable here. For $2000 you should get a bike with a pretty light air fork. The air spring not only lowers the weight of the bike, but also allows for a precise SAG and firmness adjustment simply with a pump. The Big Nine comes with a Manitou Markhor fork, which is one of the best in this price. It weighs just about 1696 g, which is very light. A Cross Country fork must have a lockout and if it comes with a remote lever on the handlebars, that will be very helpful on the demanding XC tracks. Most of the pro riders will use the forks with 32 mm stanchions. Manitou Markhor comes with 30 mm stanchions, but it feels stiff enough for me, probably also because of its unique crown design. The Trek X-Caliber is equipped with the RockShox Judy Silver TK fork and the Scott Scale 980 has got the RockShox 30 Silver TK fork. So all three are the air forks, with 30 mm stanchions and remote lockout. Manitou is by far the lightest in this comparison. 3. The drivetrain. What is important for you, as a Cross Country rider? The gearing ratio and of course the reliability. You need to be as fast, as possible on the climbs and the downhills, so your gearing ratio is more important on the XC bike, than on a trail, or even Enduro bike. The best options are: 1x12, 2x11 and 2x10 systems. Some racing hardtails still come with the 1x11 drivetrain, but 11 sprockets on the cassette with just one on the crankset may be too hard for long climbing. The Sram NX Eagle comes with one chainring at the front and 12 speed cassette (11-50T), which is quite optimal for Cross Country and actually 99% of the pro riders use this option. The Sram NX Eagle is the cheapest option for 1x12 drivetrain, as Shimano presented only their top XTR groupset as 12 speed. The Trek X-Caliber comes with 2x11, mixed drivetrain: Shimano XT rear derailleur, Shimano SLX front derailleur, Shimano SLX shifters and cassette (11-42T). The Scott Scale 980 and the Merida Big Nine ride on NX Eagle. 4. The brakes. All of the sub $2000 bikes will offer the hydraulic disc brakes at this price point. The Merida comes with the 2-finger, Shimano MT-500 brakes, while the Trek X-Caliber has the Shimano MT-400 and Scott Scale the Shimano MT-201, 3-finger brakes. Of course, the MT-500 are closer to the ones, that pro riders use. 5. Through axles, boost system. To make a long story short: the through axles and the boost system make the whole chassis stiffer. An amateur rider won't notice the difference, but it's definitely there. A stiffer frame will be more predictable, will transfer your power better to the ground and the boost system makes for a stiffer wheels and fork too. Here is, what our three bikes offer in these terms: Merida Big Nine NX Edition - front through axle, rear through axle, boost fork, boost frame, Scott Scale 980 - no through axles, boost frame, Trek X-Caliber 9 - front through axle, boost frame, boost fork. 6. The weight. The weight of XC hardtail, that goes up and down for 90 minutes, can be quite important. As it turns out, it can vary a lot, even for the bikes of a similar price. Here is the comparison of our three: Merida Big Nine NX Edition - 11,87 kg, Scott Scale 980 - 12,6 kg, Trek X-Caliber 9 - 13,15 kg. 100 grams may not change much in the race, but over a kilogram is a huge difference! Merida wins here with the fork, probably with the wheels and frame too. Comparing the weight will always tell you, how much money and time the manufacturer invested in the bike. Do you see any other alloy hardtail, that could compete with Merida here?
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zino joined the community
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Rose Backroad - Any Review? Thoughts on Gravel Bikes in Winter
Ullrich Koenig posted a topic in gravel / adventure bikes
Hello Danny, I saw a Rose Backroad Gravel Bike in some vids on your channel (one about Powermeters) several months ago. But I didn't find any review of this yet, though I watch most of your content? Since I'm interested in this bike and Gravel bikes in general, I would really appreciate to hear some thoughts from you about this special model or Gravel bikes in general. Merry Christmas, happy Holidays and better weather! Ullrich, Northern Black Forest, Germany -
Ullrich Koenig joined the community
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Volodia joined the community
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Matlock joined the community
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Thank you for the interest showed for my problem(it really means a lot). Unfortunately that is the original hanger and it is mounted on the right side. I decided to give up for now(too many searches and headaches) and build another bike. P.S. Happy Holidays and all the best!
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What fork to buy in lower price range? (It's even more difficult to choose than it seems.)
Peter replied to Peter's topic in mountain bikes
Thank you for reply. I'll look into it. -
I really enjoy riding it . I have full suspension trail bike and I used to ride local bike lane on it which was not fun at all comparing to a road bike. As for position I think that stem is too long for me, but it's better to have a bike fit (or something similar) first instead of buying a shorter stem. Also the stock saddle is not comfy so I will change it to Specialized power saddle (have one on another bike). Now I put this bike on a trainer for winter . Really happy with it .
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Shoot, it's a difficult one... One more possible reason - the chain too long. If the symptoms come after that many kilometers, it must somehow be linked to the parts wearing down.
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Specs are SLX M7000 with XT 8000 shadow plus with clutch.Shifting and indexing is perfect,clutch is perfect,pulleys both still in great shape,never hit and no impact on the XT whatsover,cableing all ok. So it started at 1800km,in every gear it started to rub vertically on the metal thing inside RD cage described in your videos where you wash XT mech(you replied to it also). I checked the HG-X with the chain tool and it was at 0.5 so i replaced the old chain with new KMC X11.93,old one was HG-X 501 or 701 i believe.New was shortened to 112 links as the old one was,i replaced also the 3 smallest sprockets 11t 13t 15t cause those is where i usually ride.Cassette is well tightened and it doesnt wobble at all. Here is the video at 5 second mark you can hear clicking(touching the metal thing inside the cage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ng9F7y4ANao Basically if i pedal in any gear or if its bumpy,chain bounces on the darn thing and its annoying as hell. 1800km -2000km was fine and now its started again. On the photo i used the 10 inch check chain method,0 starts at the same place(start of the pin) as the 10
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OK, so my buddies from a FB group came up with 2 possible reasons: the derailleur hanger isn't original (not for this frame), the rear mech has been mounted to the hanger on the wrong side. Can you confront these?
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Hm, your chain is vibrating for some reason and that's when it rubes the RD cage. The reason for that might be: worn chain and / or the cassette sprockets (check it with the measuring tool), bad chain line, worn pulleys. Did you make a lot of miles on this drivetrain?
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Training Plan For Beginner Cyclists. 3 Options.
SickBiker replied to SickBiker's topic in SickBiker Blog
This video might be helpful Just be consistent and you'll see a lot of improvement. -
Cool bike! Very well designed frame! How is the position? OK for your 20-30 km rides. You're gonna be riding more now, you'll see
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The Giant Anyroad comes with Sora components, but might have higher quality frame. The Cube Nuroad puts you into much less upright position.
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What fork to buy in lower price range? (It's even more difficult to choose than it seems.)
SickBiker replied to Peter's topic in mountain bikes
You have a bit too many requirements for a 250€ fork You can buy great models for that money, like Manitou Markhor from Amazon or CRC. It won't come with the remote lockout, which you'd have to buy separately here. It is a great, race - ready fork though. The RockShox are quite OK, but Markhor is the lightest. -
Tough Boy... Marin Pine Mountain Steel Bike With E-Bike Kit In Test.
SickBiker replied to SickBiker's topic in E-Bikes
The only two factors I would think of are: to many layers of tape on the rim? the rim not designed for tubeless. -
Can you post some pictures?
