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- Yesterday
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After long hours of reading, thinking and researching I finally made my decision. Here is my caad12 105 (I like this color scheme)
- Last week
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SFly joined the community
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Shimano 105 5800 rear derailleur vs Ultegra R8000 Shadow.
crashday replied to SickBiker's topic in rear derailleurs
I recently broke my 105 5800 rear derailleur on my road bike and looking for new one. Which one do you recommend? Is the r8000 worth upgrading from 5800? -
crashday joined the community
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LycraConflagrant joined the community
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Hi guys! I'm thinking of buying a new bike, I do not want to say what my choices are so as not to influence the answer to this comparison. In summary, the only doubt I have is to know which of these suspensions is the best ... Manitou Markhor Comp vs RockShox Judy Silver TK?
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JoaoSilva3008 joined the community
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Stuart joined the community
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Martin Bíla joined the community
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Bikerjohn joined the community
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Let's see some pictures and video first... Merida eOne-Twenty 800. A thousand ways to use it! That's the testing I love! Cool bike, tons of fun and zero problems with anything. If you don't know me from my YouTube channel, I am an XC rider, doing some 10.000 - 12.000 kilometers annually. Here's how an e-bike fits my lifestyle. I do the course preview on it. I can come early morning to the race and make 4-7 laps on the track. It helps me to prepare for the technical sections and come up with some tactics. My legs stay fresh though. MTB technique drills. I simply go out and find some super technical descend. Then I can smash it 10 times, if I want, without destroing my legs before the next day workout. Exploration. I have discovered so many new routes and places this year. Recovery ride. This is the type of ride, which I've been usually making on a road bike. Now my e-bike helps me find new ways to recover, without getting bored with the same roads over and over again. Filming. My eOne-Twenty is the main bike for my camera man, when we go out for shooting some videos. How does the Shimano Steps E800 work after 1335 km? The whole Shimano Steps system is well designed. Here's the conclusion of our long distance test: The electric motor kicks in very smoothly . 250 Watts doesn't seem much, but it feels powerfull on a steep climbs in the Boost mode. The range displayed on the unit is real. After 12 months of testing I can easily make 100 km on a flat terrain. The power sensor is kind of smart - the less you push - the less you get out of the motor. So you need to work as well. Very capable trail bike! eOne-Twenty stands for an e-bike with 120 mm of a rear travel (RockShox Revelation 130 mm at the front). It's got also the 27,5+ wheels, which means heavy duty 2.8 tires. In this model these are: Maxxis DHR at the front and Maxxis Rekon in the rear. It is a perfect match of all above mentioned features! Simply find something "impossible to ride through" and go! This machine always wants more and will push it to challenge yourself. It is NOT a bike for lazy people! I personally wouldn't use tires bigger than 2.6 on a classic bike, but on an e-bike it makes a lot of sense. The tires are bulletproof - just look at the knobs after all these miles! This bike really gives you the feeling of owning a high quality stuff. Oh, and the dropper post is a must on such a trail full suspension bike. In addition to all that, I didn't service the fork and the rear suspension yet - no need for that. The cable routing is great - no noise at all. And the motor worked flawlessly even in a pouring rain I decided to go out The crankarms though start to squeek, when pushing off the saddle. It's time for some ovehaul. Merida - great job!
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This is with the old cassette.
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There will be no friendship here... This season I was able to kick ass! I've ridden thousands of miles for my training and I used it to perform some long distance testing as well. Merida Scultura 5000 was one of the bike, that went through a tough test. I didn't like though, as it just doesn't fit to the main Merida philosophy, which is M.O.R.E Bike. Let me tell you why... Nothing M.O.R.E, but a road bike. I'll start with the advantages - it will be easier that way. The bike has a well designed CF2 carbon frame and fork. The frameset is quite compliant and when we add a carbon seatpost to it, the outcome is a comfy climbing bike. CF2 stands for Carbon Fiber 2 - the less expensive type of fibers used for building the frame. Another strong side of this roadie is it's geometry. It is well balanced - not to aggressive, but still race-ready. A larger head tube allows to ride on the drops more often, which is actually more aero, than riding on the hoods of an aggressive bike. Kudos to Merida for putting the REAL bike weight on their website too. 8,3 kg in this case. The bike also looks cool, but that's it... What are the components?? We often say to our friends: "I've got an Ultegra bike", or "Sram Red equipped bike". In this case though, we would say... well... "I've got a kinda Ultegra, Merida, R561, R510 bike"... Yes, the mix is pretty bad. For about 2300 $ we get the Shimano Ultegra R800 derrailleurs and shifters, but all other parts meant saving money for Merida. The frameset deserves some nice Shimano 105 complete groupset. Instead, we get rather poor stopping power and the rear caliper makes a lot of noise, especially while braking and turning. Weird thing. The direct mount brakes from 105 groupset would be so much better. The crankset doesn't belong to any groupset - it is the Shimano RS 510. Oh, these cables... Again! I stumble upon this problem with so many bike brands. Air space technologies, carbon fiber frame, superlight construction and these cable rattle as hell... The internal cable routing is a nightmare. It's OK, when you ride on a smooth tarmac, but don't try any bumpy roads or cobblestones. The housing hits the inside of a top tube very badly. Even my trick with using the zip ties for tensioning the cables works only for a smaller bumps. Merida, please fix this, or make just the external cables. I didn't ask for the internals The Merida Scultura 5000 could be a great bike, if the components were better - not necessarily HIGHER, just BETTER. I would really prefer no Ultegra, but better 105 brakes. I can see, that the 2019 model is already on a complete Ultegra groupset. Just wonder about its price...
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Does the mounting bolt push the RD body all the way to the hanger?
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What is the mount of the rear derrailleur? Can you make a picture from the side?
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Hi. I don't know if i'm writing in the right part of the forum..but here it goes: I got a new 10 speed Shimano Deore cassette(11-42T) for my bike to replace the old 10 speed cassette(SLX Zee 11-36T). The problem is that the rear derailleur(XT RD-M773) is hitting the cassettte. I did play with the B screw, but no luck there. What is the problem/ solution? Thank you!
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Orbea Bikes 2019 Orbea Orca Aero: the most aggressive geometry and the stiffest Orbea road frameset, Freeflow fork, minimizing the drag, created by a spinning wheel, improved aerodynamics of a whole package, Dynamic Structure Stiffness system - the chainstays, the bottom bracket shell, the downtube and headtube optimized for stiffness. Orbea Orca: climbing, lightweight racing bike, bit more comfortable than the Orca Aero, the secong stiffest frameset, after the Orca Aero Freeflow, aerodynamic fork, Dynamic Structure Stiffness sysytem, the seatstays and the top tube optimized for comfort, bit less aggressive geo, than on the Orca Aero, Monocoque frame. Orbea Avant: Endurance road bike, made for long hours in hte saddle more upright position, than on the Orca, Dynamic Structure Comfort system - the frame optimized for road buss absorption, Avant fork, 10 mm longer, the headtube 10 mm shorter (more comfort), Monocoque frame. Orbea Terra: Gravel / All Road bike, Monocoque frame, weighing just 1190 grams, comfy geo, great clearance for 28 mm tires (road), 33c tires (CX) and even 40c (gravel grinding) Terra H - new, sophisticated alloy model. Orbea Oiz: Cross Country weapon, full suspension, comes also in Trail version, with 20 mm more travel (120 mm), Inside Line system puts the lockout cable inside the frame, creating more space for the bottle, superlight, 1600 grams frame, system Boost, two bottle cages mounts. Orbea Alma: XC hardtail, comes also with a rigid - Spirit fork (575 g of weight), 4x4 Dynamic Structure for more flexibility at the seatpost - frame joint, system Boost. Orbea Rallon: for racing in the Enduro MTB, 150 mm of travel, 29 inch wheels OMR (Orbea Monocoque Race) system makes for a light and tough frame lower standover, system Boost. Orbea Occam AM: AM stand sfor All Mountain - 150 mm of travel, 27,5" wheels, it's a bike for Enduro riders or more advanced trail riders. Orbea Occam TR: TR stand for Trail - 120 mm of travel in the rear, 130 mm in the front, big wheels or 27.5+ versatile trail bike, still quite tough. Orbea Laufey: an alloy, more affordable trail hardtail playfull, trail geometry, dropper post on the higher models, Orbea's own kinda dropper on the lower models (you need to stop for lowering the saddle), Orbea MX - a budget mountain bike for a recreational riders. Then we've got the Gain Road - an AWESOME e-bike for road, wheighing just 11,5 kg, with the rear hub motor. It comes also as a gravel version, called Gain All Road. Orbea Carpe is a stylish commuter, the Katu is a small wheels city bike (also as an e-bike). The Optima looks like a typical women city bike. Finally the Vector - a great cross bike for all types of recreational riding. Have you been able to try any of the above mentioned? Here's my video guide of the Orbea 2019 models:
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Training Plan For Beginner Cyclists. 3 Options.
platy222 replied to SickBiker's topic in SickBiker Blog
Does this plan work for someone, coming back from a knee surgery with 6 months rehab(yes it was a big knee surgery) or would you recommend some other training plans, if so what would you recommend? -
Gotta start the first post. Looking for used hard-tail 650B+ Trail / AM bike. Less than 68 Head Angle. Threaded BB, 148MM rear axle. Around $1200 used Anything in this list, not in any particular order: Orbea Loki, Jamis Dragonslayer, Kona Big Kahuna, Salsa TImberjack, Ragley Bigwig, Santa Cruz Chameleon, Norco Torrent, NS Eccentric, Rocky Mountain Growler, Breezer Lightning, Marin San Quentin, Fuji Bighorn Just FYI I'm in USA / California
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Hi. Ive just purchased the Eagle nx group and have it installed. I have some slight shifting issues in the middle of the cassette. The only issue I can see is that the derailleur mounting bolt has some play in the body of the derailleur. Quite a bit actually. It shifts well in the lower and upper cogs but in the middle is not so crisp. I think it is related to this play or slop without the chain tensioning it. Does anyone else have this issue? i see there is a part replacement for xx1 for the derailleur mount bolt. Would it be worth buying that to see if it tightens up the fit? thank you for any tips.
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Race Bike Tactics Don't work for free, don't make pointless attacks, find the right place in the peloton. That's the conclusion of my latest video, which presents a huge difference in the power output and the heart rate when leading the pack vs. following wheels. Workout Break Down I used my Favero Assioma power meter + Sigma ROX 12.0 bike computer. There was a slight hill, which you can see on the overlay of the video below. 3 minutes at 25 km/h leading (15,5 mph) - avg HR 116 bpm, avg power 127 W 3 minutes at 25 km/h following - avg HR 108 bpm, avg power 77 W 3 minutes at 30 km/h leading (18,6 mph) - avg HR 136 bpm, avg power 229 W 3 minutes at 30 km/h following - avg HR 123 bpm, avg power 117 W 3 minutes at 35 km/h leading (22 mph) - avg HR 156 bpm, avg power 304 W 3 minutes at 35 km/h following - avg HR 138 bpm, avg power 206 W
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How To Remove A Stuck Bottom Bracket Cup - Some Smart Soultions. BB Removal. Bicycle
panprezes replied to SickBiker's topic in cranksets, bottom brackets
Dear SickBiker. I have similar case with the bottom bracket. The hughe difrencese is that I have seized and stucked on the right side (crank site). I have easly removed the left side cup, however the right side of the bracket together with an axle is still there. I cannot unscrew it couse the teeth are breaken off. 1. Primarly I wanted to weld the tool to it and use pneumatic tool to unscrew it, however welder has told me that it would break the paint on the frame. I have resigned from that idea. 2. I have found your video, and think that this might be an idea, however I dont know how to remove the axle first? Do you have any other ideas how to deal with that issue? Dear SickBiker. Mam podobny przypadek ze wspornikiem dolnym. Różnica jest taka, że nie mogę odkręcić strony napędowej (po prawej stronie, miejsce korby). Z łatwością zdjąłem lewą miseczkę, jednak prawy bok wraz z osią nadal tam jest. Nie mogę go odkręcić, bo zęby są zjechane. 1. Zasadniczo chciałem przyspawać narzędzie i użyć klucza pneumatycznego, aby to odkręcić jednak spawacz powiedział mi, że spalę farbę. . Zrezygnowałem z tego pomysłu. 2. Znalazłem twoje wideo i myślę, że to może być pomysł, ale nie wiem jak najpierw usunąć oś? Czy masz jakieś inne pomysły, jak sobie z tym poradzić? BR/Pzdr Maciej Stypiński -
Henry changed their profile photo
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I had same problem with my first clipless mtb shoes that I had.. the cleat was recessed too deep into sole.. Good that it did not scratch the floor when walking, but difficult to clip in and out.. Because cleat did not reach the binding mechanism too well.. It reached, but very, very parely. Maybe, it was because I tightened the bolts of cleats too much, when installing them to shoe. Shoes were some cheapest specialized shoes.. with naylon soles. I now use only SM-SH56 cleats, I don't dare to ride with them on PD-M520 pedals with these, because it can so easily unclip.. slip off to side, even when the spring tension isn't weakest. It seems that it can happen when foot tilt a bit outward.. Weight to out side of feet too much. But they worked very well with my M530 pedals and also work with T8000.. I use T8000 pedals now, (because need to have flat side when riding at shared bike road with pedestrians and kids.. I feel safer this way.) T8000 actually did come with sh56, so I guess they really must work with them... But I think that with M530 they had even better match. With M520 and lowest spring tension I slipped off from pedal even with SH51 cleats, and with shoes that had well constructed soles(cleat not recessed too deep)
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Hello Sick Biker, I'm a huge fan of yours. I have a few questions for you if you have time. I'm really wanting an up grade to a better hardtail, any preferences for me around 1000 $ - 1300 $ range? What do you think about the Cannondale Cujo 2 vs. Trek Roscoe 8 ? I'd like to get your thoughts on these two bikes, and which one do you feel is better all around. I have many more questions that need answering, but watching your videos helps alot. Thanks again.
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Hello all, What do you think about these two gravel bikes? https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/anyroad-2 https://www.cube.eu/cz/2018/bikes/road/road-cyclocross/nuroad/cube-nuroad-blacknred-2018/
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So the chain is HG-X 11 on XT m8000,approx 1800km ridden.Well maintained and lubed,and it started to make clicky noise. No damage on XT and no crashes. https://youtu.be/Ng9F7y4ANao Any ideas why is "dancing" and hitting the metal plate between pulleys?
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Hi Danny, I was watching your old videos about CAAD10 and shifting issues/performance. Is it still valid for 105 or was it chain which was installed incorrectly (or some other misconfigurations)? Thanks a lot :).
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See http://goodway.cz/en/titul-page-aj/ For more events in CZ check out https://mtbs.cz/sekce/kalendar or http://www.cykloserver.cz/kalendar-akci/ (you can switch to English there).
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Ok, I definitely will
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If you buy it, show us some photos!
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Thanks a lot Danny :).
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Yo Max, the Cannondale CAAD12 is VERY comfy in terms of compliance, but yes, it's got a racing geometry. If you don't have any problems with flexibility, it can still be good for you. Just don't cut hte steerer of the fork and perhaps use shorter, or higher stem. 20-30 km rides can feel great on this bike.
