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  2. got this bike about a month ago, i really do like it regardless of the cheap parts, everything is standard and the frame is built to hold the controller and battery internally, and it has lots of space inside that will fit a pretty big upgrade in the future (i'm gonna go for 500w and rebuild the battery that it came with using 3 more cells, but if you ditch the battery case you could fit a HUGE battery in the uptube, and the controller section could easilly fit a 1000w 48v controller) as far as the electronics go, but my biggest issue is the gearing. i would love to just go to a 1x10 on this bike but i find it really unlikely that i would manage to fit a freehub on it and the rear triangle is aluminum, so i want to go with a bigger chainring. but i have also been toying with the idea of going 2x7 or 3x7 if i could only figure out a decent way to put a front derailleur on. anyone have any ideas for fitting a front derailleur on this frame? oh, and i've thought about putting it on the rear triangle, but i don't know if it would work so well because the triangle moves separate from the chainring. wouldn't that be an issue?
  3. I'm 180cm tall, because of the very low price I consider to buy 29" Trek superfly 9.8 sl from 2015 but frame is L one year of use or 26" Scott spark rc 10 size M from 2012 mint condition I'm ex mountain bike champion in my country 13-12-11 years ago... But almost 7 years I'm off the race scene, ride my bike for comuting and some maratons... My goal is to back in to the races BTW I have similar riding style, body constitution and age like you... what do you recomand... Q: is there a huge (big) diference in the wheel size 26" vs 29" (I have never race on 29") or it's just markenting
  4. Straight from the box to the XC race - that's how I started my long distance test of a new 2018 Rose Count Solo 2 hardtail. The race was extremely hard, very muddy and I did quite well, finishing 5th. I'll describe here my first impressions, as the bike has to go through another 1800 km in my test. 999€ or 1230$ for an XC machine? Yes, you can race on the bike of that price range and you can do it well. I got 5th in the Masters category (I'm 38 years old), but my average speed would also give me a 9th position in the Elite category - pretty cool! For 999€ plus shipping you get an alloy hardtail with some Shimano SLX components. The real weight of my bike in Large is 12,9 kg out of the box, so without the pedals. Besides that you get the RockShox Recon RL fork and Mavic Crossride wheelset on Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires. Not bad! New for 2018 - Count Solo frame. Comparing to the previous generation, the Count Solo frame got more classic design. It has a tapered head tube with a new Rose logo, well made, but not smoothened welds and no through axle. The frame weighs some 1800 grams, according to Rose, so it's not a high-end product, but you can definitely expect some durability here. I do... The rear brake and rear derailleur housing is routed externally and the front mech got an internal one. The frame is also equipped with the eyelets for the racks and fenders, as the bike at this price point is not only designed for racing. Small issues? Yes - the cable routed inside the down tube is loose and it rattles on the cobblestones. How it rides? The Rose Count Solo rides beautifully through the easy trails, but it won't slow you down on an aggressive Cross Country track. The race I made on the bike was a 4 km long loop with a rock garden, a small jump, some logs and plenty of steep descends and climbs. The melting snow made it also super muddy. The geometry is balanced, though my "Frog" (Merida Big Nine Lite) has much shorter wheelbase. The Count Solo feels pretty stable, but rides well through the corners as well (just look at the pictures below). The 2x11 drivetrain is versatile and I had no problems with it in the mud, changing the gears constantly. The RockShox Recon RL has the 32 mm stanchions and can be used as a 100% XC fork. It is stiff enough and simply does the job on the course. Some of you were telling me about the OneLoc remote, that opens by itself on the bumps - mine works fine so far. All the components come from a known manufacturers - you know what you're buying. The RockShox Recon RL with an OneLoc remote isn't super light, but it works fine and it's stiff! Good value for the money. Who should consider buying the Count Solo 2. There are two groups of riders, who should check out this bike. It is the overall MTB amateurs, from easy trail riding to commuting and the XC / marathons racers on a budget. If you plan to train and race in mountain biking, this will be a very well spent 1000€. Choose your line and don't make any unnecessary moves and your Count Solo will let you pass many riders in the corners. The Schwalbe Racing Ralph tires are versatile and I pushed them to the limits on the mud with some good results. The Rose Count Solo on the steep climbs... When there was to much mud, I chose to push the bike, rather than carry 13 kg on my shoulder. Jumps, logs, rock gardens - no problem for Count Solo. Remember - it is your technique, that makes you fast, but the bike has to let you do your thing... The questions you'll probably ask... 1. No through axles?! Nope, quick release front and rear. I would appreciate the through axles on an XC bike, but to be honest - didn't feel any lack of stiffness. 2. Would the 1x11 drivetrain be better? No. The 2x11 drivetrain did great in the extreme conditions and it will suit defferent needs of the "budget MTB" riders. 3. This bike is definitely trail-ready and race-ready, but a carbon seat post can give you a bit more comfort. If you're serious about XC - get the dropper post.
  5. Which Gravel Bike would be best for me?

    Nothing? Welp, I guess my opinions about Star Trek Discovery are just too controversial these days. Anyway, I actually found a solution on my own and comes in the form of cool new tech which is the best kind of solution! Namely, the Redshift ShockStop Suspension Stem which, according to quite a few reviews, seems to be a very efficient way to improve comfort on the frontend of pretty much all bikes with an Ahead system. So, I can just buy the Votec VRX Pro which gives me the advantage of an adjustable/replacable standart frontend and upgrade it later if it turns out that it's not comfortable enough - and it's gonna be cheaper than the Canyon Grail either way (although that one is still pretty cool). Maybe that's somewhat helpful to you or someone else on the forum. Definately worth a look! Here's a link:
  6. First off - I'm new here, hello! Sooo, I'm really torn on this one. I'll have saved up enough to buy my first Gravel Bike very soon. Right now I ride a touring bike which feels more and more limiting due to its weight, the somewhat inconvenient shifting with the 3x10 system, rim brakes, outdated geometry, etc. So, the Votec VRX Pro was my first choice - very good price/performance, very nice components, comes tubeless ready (sealant and valves included) and overall has no real downside except for maybe the 1x11 shifters which are arguably better suited for a CX bike rather than a gravel bike but on the other hand, it uses the double tap lever which is likely better for trails and the 1x SRAM Rival derailleur basically eliminates chainslap which is really cool imho. Here's a link with all the specs in english: and in polish for your convenience: Then there is the recently released Canyon Grail - also very nice price/performance, especially if you concider the carbon frame, comes almost tubeless ready (wheels are taped but no sealant or valves included) and has a 2x11 Shimano 105 drivetrain which is propably nicer on long rides but not as nice on trails. It also has clearance for slightly fatter tyres (42mm vs 40mm on the Votec VRX). Aaaand the big elephant in the room - the handlebar. I really think it looks very cool, but that's subjective. Now here's the thing - Comfort on the handlebar is very important to me, especially because I actually got some ulnar nerve entrapment after a long ride on my Touring bike which had a flatbar at the time (now I have one with a 14° backsweep). I did recover from it for the most part but on some days I still feel some numbness on the skin of my pinky fingers - nothing more than a slight inconvenience but it shouldn't get any worse, obviously. Soo, the handlebar should be comfortable and ergonomic. Thing is, the Grail is confirmed to be very comfortable on the hover bar but I'll propably mostly ride on the hoods on long rides and only occasionally on the flat part of the bar and I haven't found any information about how comfy the ride would be on the hoods. Also the bar is not at all adjustable, so if it doesn't fit - tough luck for me - still they advertise the advanced comfort pretty heavily. Here are the links in english and polish: So, concidering all that, I'd love to know your opinion about these two bikes, and/or some other conciderations I could use to make an educated purchase decision. Also please keep on keeping on with your videos - you're doing great!
  7. Surely nearly all the tyre stuff is subjective? Or more likely where is the free stuff coming from? I submit that most normal bikers won't pay more for a bike tyre than they would for a car tyre. Very few "real" tests that says tyre A wore better than tyre B or type, depth of rubber etc. Interested though if people fit different rubber/treads for different races you attend and asking other racers what does or doesn't work.
  8. Guys! Thank you for the cognitive article. I think that I have already ripe for such a ride and I want to try myself in this world. But what about weather conditions? Would they not drive a ride? I recently read a cognitive article on how to keep pace when riding in different weather conditions Share your opinion. This is important to me, because I am an amateur but with great enthusiasm
  9. Hi SickBiker, first of all, let me give you compliments of you constant work on MTB related videos - keep on doing what you do. Secondly, I see that you are a fan of cannondale bicycles and I saw that you are have experience with (dis)assembly of bicycles (cannondale f-si in particular), so I'd like to ask you a question and hopping maybe you can help. I bought a Cannondale FSI carbon with hollowgram Sl (2x11) crankset, and after 4 rides I've notices something that probably needs to repaired (see the images). I think that I didn't have this gap between spacer and the frame prior first ride, so it means that it appeared during this 4 rides. So, now I'm thinking if I should repair it alone or ask local bike-service for their services. I've manage to remove the fixing bolt, but the arm remains fix with the possibility to easily push it toward the bearing (despite this obvious gap, I didn't notice any instability or looseness in the crankset also during the rides). How would you repair it? Thing worth mentioning is that the bike was imported from USA to Croatia so I don't have any possibility to fix it in the store where I bought it. Thanks in advance and kind regards, Teodor Maybe I found the answer, but I'm now quite sure. According to following document(, NOTE under point 6 on page 7 this could be good assembled crank. What do you think? Thank you, Teodor
  10. Sram Eagle Rear Derailleur Adjustment. Tutorial

    Hi, on my GX Eagle i have the following issue: when in the lowest gear and pedaling backwards (freewheeling) the chain comes of the cassette. Any ideas what could be the problem?
  11. Hey there! So, I'm about to buy my first expensive bike for riding/racing, and have come down to these 2 bikes! 1st: 2017 Specialized Venge Vias Expert Disc LINK 2nd: 2018(?) Merida Reacto 7000-e Disc LINK The Venge is only available in a 54, while the Merida, can be got in a 50, or 54 at the moment (not entirely sure which of the 2 is a closer fit for me honestly, as I'm in the middle) The prices are comparible, though I can probably get the Merida for a better deal in the end, but I just don't know! The Merida seems to have all the better overall features as far as finish is concerned, and price, but something about that Venge is just making it a hard choice! anyone here have any opinions on this?
  12. Have you tried a bike fit? Why I would not go to the bike fitter with a new bicycle:
  13. Hi, It make sense to remount with grease front chainrings, bolts, cranks, BB. What type of BB do you have ? Pressfit BB is the most common source of creaking.
  14. What’s your total amount of calories you are taking in a day, and when you say you have 3 meals 2 of which are the Bertrand how many calories are each of them and what’s your other meal tnx?
  15. I have one problem with my trp spyre brakes. It's how the cable is attacked to actuator arm. Precisely the rear brake. I don't know, is the rear one defective, or perhaps the shop that sold me the bike had modified the front brake attachment. But the rear one destroys the cable, when tighten the bolt even little too much.. If need to re lease and tighten that bolt few times. The cable is trash. Here's picture of my rear brake cable end, how it looked this winter when I decided to replace it. I was surprised when saw how bad it was. I knew there's one broken strand. I expected that maybe there's one more broken or so, But when I unscrew the bolt. It seems only 4 strands were holding.. Or actually I'm not sure how many strands were really still holding, because they were broken inside clamp.. But those four were not broken. But the front cable was okay. When comparing the clamps holding the cable. I saw the front one had this groove for cable. Here's 2 pics of the front brake cable fastening thing. I can't show the rear one, because to show it I need to unscrew the cable and then, every time I screw it on and undo it. The cable gets more damaged. But the rear one don't have the long groove where the cable can sink in. Just the many short ones that cross the cable and I think those are the ones that damage the cable. I tried to make grove to the rear one also, but the file did nothing to that material.. Maybe I could not put enough force to small file, because it would break.. but with bigger file I can't make small enough groove. I wonder, should I try a angular/power grinder.. Actually the most I want to know, is: Why the front one has the groove. Does your brake have groove also? I wonder, did the online shop in Germany, where I bought the bike 3 years ago, modified that piece.. And what method they used.. It seems like it's grind with grinding wheel.. there are those individual tracks of grinding.. Or maybe they heated it hot and then pressed the cable into it and those tracks are the tracks of each individual strand of cable? I don't believe that, though.. I'm scared to try to cut it with big power grinder.. But... I bought a bit more expensive brake cables. But I could only install it to front, because it would get smashed in rear and therefore no point to use good cable there.. Not before I have solved problem. I also overhauled both brake calipers. With some new grease... The front one was in bad shape. The bearing was rusty. The rear one was still fine, but I backed also that one with a lot of grease.. I used some regular bicycle grease.. finishline grease. I hope it's fine. I did have also brake grease for cars, but.. I thought that it's not a bicycle specific. So I better don't use it. I hate cars. I hope the brakes won't get so hot that they would require brake grease... Rotors yes, they get very hot, but will it really reach to the bearings of brakes.. I hope it will not.
  16. Fat Bike Race 2018 in Poland.

    Here's my on the trail bike racing against the Fat Bikes. I finished 18th out of 105 riders:
  17. Before you decide to replace your old road bike with a new one, that comes with the disc brakes, consider this upgrade:
  18. Have any of you tried the cold shower "therapy"? I did and it became my daily routine:
  19. Hi Daniel, I currently own this groupset and Ive noticed that whenever I shift up to the higher gears (9-11), I hear some kind of creaking noise from either my bb or pedal. It seems it only creaks when I pedal hard but only on those said gears. It is all fine in all the other gears even when I pedal hard. It is also fine on those gears if I simply pedal softly. May I ask what you think is the problem and a possible fix? Thanks, -Sean
  20. It's been 3 months, since I started to eat mainly the organic, drinkable food from a German brand - Bertrand. Here are the results so far:
  21. I still installed the compressionless housing there and I think I got it pretty good. I cut the housing about 3 cm longer first, then routed it into bike leaving both ends little longer and then while trying to hold the housing on shape, cut little off from both ends. Do get both ends perfectly level and right. After installing inner wire I left it under tension, then I was "massaging" it for a while. I mean moving all the bends, like crumpling, or so, to ensure that all those helical wires of housing would get where they want to be under pressure.. I think I got my brake very little better.. I omitted also the tektro RX2.1 aditional brake level, for front brake.Although I did use it often. It was catching with other cables.. and got the brake cable housing of front brakes.. damaged near to that lever.. But I think I keep the right one, because it won't bother.. And there for that short section from sdi lever to the additional brake lever. I will use the cheap standard coiled housing, not because I 'm skimpy, but I think the standard one works as well there, or maybe even better.. Maybe I should get rid also that right lever, but.. still. I probably use it at traffic, when need to make left turn.. the right hand would reach better to there than to sdi lever, when siting upright and looking carefully back and left and right.. and showing the turn signal with left hand. Maybe I made the front housing a bit short? Might be difficult to remove handlebar together with stem... I guess I have to slide fork downward instead of lifting stem.. I'm sorry, if my topic seems not really necessary, or stupid. But while it's my first time changing cable housings. And I could not find much specific info, about compressionless brake housings. Only about shifting housings.. and even there I found just one statement where someone said, that in his beliefs the best is to route the short cable that connect to rear derailleur first to shape and then cut.. because that cable makes almost 180 degree turn.. and it will otherwise when cut straight the ends get non right... I cut it first little longer as straight, because I thought that it will be under tension when try to cut long cable after bending it to shape, and then each strain might get with different length, when relieved from tension while cutting...
  22. Have you tried any of these high-end Shimano Dura-Ace groupsets?
  23. What is a 24-hour Mountain Bike Race 24-hour MTB race is a marathon, or an ultra-marathon, which 24 hours in duration. The riders can usually compete individually, or as a team. The solo riders will basically push the pedals all day and all night, with some breaks for a meal or bike / lights maintenance. The teams will exchange their riders according to team tactics, but each team can only have one rider on the course at a time. Who wins? Within each category, the rider, or a team who has completed the most laps is the winner. For riders on the same number of laps, the rider who has completed them in the shortest total race time will receive the higher placing. How To Prepare Here's the key thought of this article: the 24-hour race is NOT a discipline for super humans and if you are an active cyclists with a moderate fitness level, you probably will be able to finish such an event. Below are the tips I collected from my "shorter", 110 km marathons and from the riders, who compete in 24-hour events on a high level. The Equipment If you watch my videos on YouTube, then you have probably noticed, that I always mention the bike and the components as the LEAST important in our training and racing. But here I'll start with it, and for a reason - just keep reading The ultra-marathons are the ones, where the strategy and the equipment play a huge role. It is the 24-hour events, where the best trained riders not always win. Your bike doesn't have to be the lightest, but it has to endure much more, than on any of your rides before. Technical problems can cause huge time losses, or sometimes lead to DNF... So remember about these things: The tires. Do not focus on getting the featherweight, fast rolling tires, assuming that they will save so much time over a 24-hour period. Let's leave this risk to those, who set world records (I'm surprised, that pro riders risk so much here - the XC riders puncture on a number of events each season). On such a long race you need puncture resistance and traction. Remember - you'll be tired, you'll be sleepy and your focus will go away after a couple of racing hours. That means making mistakes, which a grippier tires can forgive you. I personally don't feel that comfortable on Maxxis Aspen, but loe Maxxis Crossmark and for even more technical marathon I wouldn't hesitate to ride on Schwalbe Nobby Nic front and rear. The saddle. The saddle I say! Smashing some 3 hours workouts and riding for 24 hours in the rain are two different things. You must know your saddle and be sure, that it gives you enough support, but doesn't create to much pressure on your veins. If you're going to race in wet conditions, the wrong saddle can lead to a serious abrasion. You need some 5 hours rides to see, whether your saddle feels fine, but test in the shorts you're going to use during the events. Some pads in the bib-shorts may work well with the saddle, some might not. The saddles can come with cut outs, different softness and shaping. Comfortable gloves and handlebar grips. The pain you're gonne suffer from during the race is a complex thing and results from many factors. Try to eliminate as many as you can. The brakes and the drivetrain. Your bike has obviously to be "roadworthy". Keep in mind though, that you're going to push it to the limits. In extreme conditions you might wear the braking pads to the metal, so don't bring the bike to the start, if your pads have already 30% wear. Get the new ones and eliminate another reason for not completing the race (or crashing). Your drivetrain should be lubed, but not sticky, so that you don't collect a lot of grime with each lap. Drinking And Nutrition You simply can not run out of water and food. Do not rely on the meals provided in the feeding zones only. Try out using a hydration pack. It works fine for many riders. Do not use any power bars or food, which is new to your stomach. The 24-hour race day is the worse for testing out anything. Training Important message once more - if you are healthy and you ride a bike on a regular basis, the 24-hour race isn't out of your reach. Why so? Because for the most of the time you're going to be riding in your 2nd zone, which is aerobic and very sustainable. How to train then? Many 24-hour race top riders come from Cross Country or "short" 100 miles marathons. Some of them don't even do a specific training for 24-hour events. What it means for you? If you simply ride the bike every week, with some 3-5 hours rides on the weekends, you WILL be able to finish an ultra-marathon. You're not gonna win, but with good tactics and preparation, you're going to have a lot of fun. Learn how to pace! You may not have an FTP of 350 Watts, but with your 220 Watts plus smart pacing, the race will unfold nicely to you. Right after the start, your tempo should be very comfortable, almost like on a ride with your kids. Some 5 hours into the race, you'll start feeling the pain, without even changing the pace and that's a smart ride. A power meter could help in pacing, but you can also monitor your heart rate, or even use the perceived exertion rate method. If you start to fast, you may not even finish the race. Don't attempt to ride on somebody's wheel. Set your own pace and remember, that others might ride in the team category, while you're a solo fighter Do some pacing sessions with me: Learn to drink and eat DURING a race. It's not an easy thing. You most likely won't be able to consume as many calories, as you burn with each hour of the event. Forgetting to hydrate and eat would be a big mistake. Therefore when you prepare for the marathon, set a reminder on your bike computer or smartphone and try to drink and eat something every 20 minutes. With time, you'll make your own schedule for that. Learn what your stomach tolerates when under pressure. Try to eat a real food besides your power bars. You may feel pretty relaxed going to the event, saying: "it's just for fun", but your body prepares for a battle, knowing very well, that it will be put to test. Training plan. I know you probably expect me in this article to give you a training formula, but I don't know you - your habits, experience, age etc. Remember, that before even getting into your training, you should consult your physician. If the doctor gives you a green light for the training, here's how you can do it. Try to plan 3-4 rides in the week, and destine one of these for a long, endurance workout. Just go out with your friends and make it a great day in the saddle. With time you'll be able to increase the average speed, but don't focus on it. During the shorter, 2-3 hours riders plan some tempo intervals - e.g. 3x10 minutes in zone 3-4, with 5-10 minutes recovery between them. Zone 3-4 shouldn't feel extreme, but your breathing will be deeper and more intense. That is what you need for a long, endurance event. No sprint, no attacks, just smart pacing throughout. Pedalling technique. During each workout focus on your pedaling efficiency, as it may save you a lot of energy during a marathon, but can also save your muscles and joints. Here's my session for you: Have fun planning your first 24-hour MTB Race and I invite you to a discussion below...
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